Lignes de Flute: A window into Montreal’s 2024 Fashion Scene
Come read about a Montreal fashion show!
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Montréal, Québec is a northeastern city in Canada that is truly unique in its history and culture, but its fashion industry is often overlooked. The city started out in the early 19th century as a hub for the fur trade and has since become a fashion manufacturing mecca. Today’s Montreal fashion-goers, by and large, flock towards sustainable and ethical fashion; they spend their weekends treasure-hunting for one-of-a-kind relics from the vintage boutiques on St. Laurent (a diverse and young borough in the North Central part of the city). This recent rise in thrifting culture has inspired the youth to look towards decades-old local designer pieces for inspiration. Canadian fashion designers also have a particular sense of ethnic pride and acknowledgment of the flaws in Canadian history, which all end up weaving into their work. The Lignes De Fuite runway series on November 30 was a fascinating illustration of the embodiment of Canadian history in the 2024 Québécois fashion scene.
The atmosphere was fresh and exciting. Upon entrance, one would find themself amongst the most stunning women, stylish queer youth, and the most alluring French ex-boyfriends. Echoing off the white brick walls of the space were chatter, EDM, smoke, purple, blue, and green lights, antique sofas, graffiti, and a flashy elevated runway. Leather pants, fur coats, and heavy metal jewelry seem to be the most avant-garde pieces this season. The show skillfully bridged the gap between English and French language by integrating both languages through translations, captions, and bilingual posters, creating an experience that was accessible and inclusive for all viewers.
The fashion wasn’t high art—but it was artsy, to say the least. It’s no McQueen or Margelia, but the designers do deserve credit for achieving their goal of being evocative. In the show, each designer evidently styled their pieces with meticulousness and passion.
Empreintes Vestiges by Émilie Bouffard is a remarkable and distinct starting collection and showcase of artisanal craftsmanship. At the heart of the show is Bouffard’s innovative transformation of organic materials such as onion peels, dried flowers, and local plant harvests into stunning, vivid textiles. Bouffard’s commitment to sustainability and locality makes her work truly special. Her collection showcased an unorthodox process but also focused on simple, pretty garments in faded pastels. While the majority of the looks had an earthy feel, Bouffard made sure to keep the collection fresh, adding pops of newer-age accessories — as seen in the white combat boots in the photograph. Overall, her collection aligns beautifully with her ethos of honoring impermanence, nature, and the evolution of trends. Each piece inspired the viewer to embrace the beauty of chance and transformation, serving as a testament to Bouffard’s ability to combine environmental consciousness with innovative fashion.
The second collection of the night was by the WJ Crosson brand by Will Crosson. His designs represent an interesting ethos rooted in the distinctiveness of the Canadian cultural context. His store’s website states that his “design practice started from a very simple idea: the Canadian context is unique and important.” This unwavering belief is evident in his work; like Émilie Bouffard, he creates patterns one at a time, with a particular intent of enjoying the labor. During the show, however, the two collections were remarkably different. Crosson’s designs were definitely sustainable and unique, but even more than that, they were each dedicated in some part to Canadian culture. He uses cultural iconography, tons of Canadian flags, and fabrics that accommodate cold weather. His collection also focuses almost entirely on men’s clothes, which is rare to see.
Antoine Dufresne’s show was the final and arguably most boundary-pushing collection of the night. His work is rooted in contradiction, ambiguity, and a fearless exploration of the body. His designs celebrate the fluidity and diversity of human identity, crisscrossing traditional gender lines and incorporating a wide range of influences from both pop media and his personal life. He interpreted these pop references in various uncanny and ironic ways, and the audience was full of giggles and gasps. (The image shown is one of the few pieces that was not explicit in some way). Dufresne made bold but memorable choices. Each of these collections was strikingly composed in a way that honors sustainable fashion manufacturing, Canadian history, and the realities of contemporary industry. Montreal’s outskirts could not have been a better place to host this event, as its atmosphere was filled with French speakers, American tourists, international fashion fanatics, and, most importantly, true Montreal locals.