Definitively Delicious: (Three Of) The 100 Best Restaurants in NYC

On July 16, 2024, the beloved and respected New York Times food critic Pete Wells announced his retirement from his position, citing health concerns connected to his work at the Times. Best known for his yearly edition of “The 100 Best Restaurants in NYC,” Wells has been one of the most influential people in the culinary critic scene for twelve years now. Well, as the second and third most qualified people to critique food ever (trust), it’s only natural we take on Wells’ legacy. But to start, we decided to visit some of his restaurants of choice in his list of the city’s best. 

#57: Mercado Little Spain

This Spanish market, located in Hudson Yards, is a gorgeous and lively representation of all corners of Spanish cuisine. It features an incredible amount of diversity, having something for every tongue, whether it’s a snack or a five-course meal. The market takes influences from the vibrant mercado (market) halls throughout Spain, which are filled with various bars, diners, stalls, and stands. At Mercado Little Spain, you’ll find just that: a collection of 12 kiosks, two bars, and four sit-down restaurants. The restaurants, with their isolated niches of Spanish cuisine, are arguably the weakest choices in the market. We’d recommend having a grand tasting menu and trying as much as possible from as many places as possible. Tapas, meaning small sharing plates (like appetizers), are a huge part of Spanish food and highlight what Mercado has to offer. Mouthwatering highlights lining the plates include the pan de cristal con tomate (a simple Spanish bread served with tomato spread, imported from Catalonia, giving it a deliciously authentic taste), the tortillas de patatas (a decadent fried potato and egg pancake-esque dish), and the xuxo helados (a flakey pastry “cone” with a tart soft serve ice cream). Overall, the charm of Mercado Little Spain lies not just in its fantastic food but in the authenticity and variety of Spanish culture and cuisine to sample. 

#82: Temple Canteen

Honestly, this one was surprising to see on the New York Times list. The Temple Canteen of Flushing’s Ganesh Hindu temple feels like more of an underground (literally) spot for locals and frequent visitors of the temple than a restaurant known for its food. That being said, similarly to the authenticity of Mercado, the Temple Canteen is the epitome of genuine South Asian cuisine. Before heading downstairs, where the Canteen is located, it’s best to check out the actual temple first to, if not worship, appreciate the stunning art and architecture of the Hindu faith. The Canteen is a cafeteria-style establishment, which is partially why it was shocking to see it on a list amongst NYC’s top Michelin-star chefs. They are best known for their dosas (thin, savory, rice-batter crepes), which are so impressively long they hang off the tray. Most South Asian dishes consist of a carb, like bread or rice, and an exquisitely flavorful “dip.” The Canteen has an excellent poori chole, a fried bread with chickpea curry. Nothing here is lacking flavor or oil. The Temple Canteen, like most restaurants in India, makes no effort to glamorize itself because it doesn’t need to: its food speaks for itself. They have metal tables, plastic utensils, and styrofoam plates, and most of the workers there are volunteers. It’s a fast-paced, humble basement operation, and with this un-glamorized excellence, it is not just an eatery but a gateway to Indian cuisine.      

#36: Szechuan Mountain House

Despite having two locations and running for several years now, Szechuan Mountain House still remains one of the most difficult restaurants to snag a reservation at. Tucked into a teensy loft on St. Marks Place, the East Village location is easily identifiable by the line out the door. Inspired by the food from the Chinese province of Szechuan, guests flock to experience their signature ma la, or numbing spice, that leaves their mouths tingling. 

The restaurant’s aesthetic is nothing short of transporting; upon entry, visitors are met with the tranquil sounds of flowing water from the mountain-inspired koi pond, surrounded by dark, gray rocks. This is only further complimented by the ethereal string music playing within each wooden booth, complete with draping curtains. The difference between outside and inside the restaurant is night and day, given the amount of foot traffic just outside the door. Yet the calm environment makes every diner feel at peace as they brace to handle the heat.

Once you’re seated, the server pours you hot chrysanthemum tea from the teapot on your table, which stays boiling for refills during the whole meal. Szechuan Mountain House is most known for their 晾衣白肉, or swing pork belly, which every table had at least one order of. Their 麻麻藤椒鱼, or Ma-Ma Hotfish, is a melt-in-your-mouth flounder with thin slices of cucumbers and bean sprouts served in a broth so spicy that our server told us not to drink or we would experience “gut problems.” In what I’m sure was a coincidence and not because of our runny noses, this was also the point in the meal where the servers provided us with a delectable, complimentary iced chrysanthemum tea they said would ease the spice, as the numbing sensation wasn't for the faint of heart. But the star of the show was indubitably the 铁板蒜香虾, or teppan shrimp. With enough garlic to terrify a coven of vampires, this shrimp finishes cooking tableside, which you de-shell with the gloves they provide. We’d highly recommend adding the garnishes to a side of rice for an umami treat!

Overall, Szechuan Mountain House is an experience: a bustling eatery where each dish makes you wonder why you bother eating anything else. The servers are extremely friendly and eager to help you decide what to get, which is dire when you’re given an eight-page menu. Even vampires will find something that strikes their fancy at this snapshot of Szechuan, China, 7493 miles away; just tell them to avoid the teppan shrimp.